Pilak, key to Tripura's history

By D. Shekharan


Nestled in the lush green valley dotted with paddy-fields, sparse human habitation and occasional uplands, Pilak in South Tripura's Belonia subdivision holds the key to Tripura's ancient history. Lying uncared for over the past many decades this archaeological site which gives conclusive proof of the peaceful existence of Hindu-Buddhist culture spanning over 8th to 12th century is all set to catapult Tripura on top of the country's archaeological and tourist map. Pilak first hit the headlines in the seventies with the finds of archaeological artefacts, antiques including sandstone images of Lord Buddha, Mahisasur Mardini, Surya Deb, Avolokiteswar and exquisite terracotta images of Lord Buddha inscribed on it. Speaking on the site, local resident Sanjit Biswas who has saved a lot of archaeological materialsfrom ruin said 'in our boyhood in the mid sixties many people flattened mounds and uplands containing relics of temples and stupas to extend paddy fields and the attempts at preservation of the materials started only since 1973 when the then Chief Minister Mr Sukhamay Sengupta visited the site'. Pilak, located more than a hundred miles south of Agartala, drew the attention of historians and researchers in 1927 when Mr Samarendra Debbarma, a scion of Tripura's royal family, gave detailed references to the glorious antiquity of the place in his book entitled 'Tripura Smriti'. Mr Debbarma's views were later echoed more authoritatively by German scholar Dr H.B.Beshart who spoke highly of the wealth of archaeological matters contained underground. Mr Thaikhai Chowdhury, a Mog tribal and officer of the information department who took a media team on a tour of the site said 'there is reference to Pilak as 'pilakko' in a stone inscription at Mruhang (old and big city), the capital of the old Arakan kingdom in present Myanmar. He asserted on the basis of Mog folklore and tradition of oral history that in remote past there was close cultural link between 'pilakko' and Arakan via Chittaong hill-tracts of present Bangladesh. 'The sculptural and architectural remains of Pilak closely resemble those found in the Maynamoti-Paharpur area in Comilla district of present Bangladesh' Mr Thaikhai Chowdhury added. What, however, has brought Pilak into limelight afresh is the excavation of a full-sized Buddhist stupa in the 'Shyamsundar tilla' area. Explaining the importance of the newly excavated site Mr Narayan Chandra Debnath, a senior conservation assistant of the Archaeological Survey of  India (ASI) said' this is a full-size Buddhist stupa built in 11th century on the pattern of architecture during the reign of palas of Bengal '. Mr Debnath who has been in charge of the Pilak site since 1999 said the stupa had been excavated under the supervision of ASI superintendent Mr P.Kumaran since January 1999 and completed in March this year. He pointed out that the stone image of meditating Buddha found in the sanctum sanctorum of the stupa had 'very close affinity to tribal features on the mouth'. He said that Pilak archaeological site was spread over three square kms of land west of Jolaibari market area in Belonia subdivision .' The sites are known as 'Shyamsundar tilla', 'Thakurani tilla', 'Sagar doba', 'Debdaru' 'Basudebbari' around Jolaibari market' Mr Debnath added. Regarding the preservation of the site and its potential as a tourist spot Mr Thaikhai Chowhdury said the ASI had taken over the site since 1999 and its treasure trove was now under protection according to the provisions of government of India's relevant Act of 1958. He asserted that the state government had plans to develop the site for Buddhist tourists of South East Asia and other places' and for this we have submitted a project of Rs 150 crores to centre '. The centre will seek financial assistance from the government of Japan , he added. The state government has already developed the site as a tourist spot by setting up a cafetaria and providing other facilities for visitors from outside. Both Mr Narayan Debnath and Mr Thaikhai Chowdhury said 'it is evident from the excavations and recovery of archaeological materials that between 8th and 12th century Pilak used to be a temple town and a centre of learning where Buddhists and Hindus co-existed peacefully.' The place also lies in a strategic location near the trijunction of Tripura, Chittagong hill-tracts of Bangladesh and present Myanmar' they added. Mr Jawhar Lal Acharjee, an authority on Tripura's history and a prominent numismatist, said 'Pilak is a treasure house of history which is just waiting to be unearthed'.